Well, I'm eager to start the Republic of Ireland portion of my trip (really wishing I could fast forward 24 hours) as most everyone else took off for the airport to head back to the US early this morning, and I'm not going to lie -- I'm feeling a bit lonely and sad today. Left for a run this morning (shorter one than usual) as my fellow trip participants got in their cabs, and I've just been doing laundry, getting directions for the next leg of my journey, and thinking about packing ever since. I've always liked the way that camaraderie grows so swiftly when a group of people, many strangers, are involved in something so immersing, spending all day every day with one another even for a relatively short amount of time (two weeks for us), and today it didn't take long for me to learn that I don't really like still being here without them. I thoroughly enjoyed my time here in Northern Ireland and my time with my "fellow travellers," all of whom brought perspective to our experiences and conversations, and I'm glad to have had the chance to learn with and from them. I've had more stimulating discourse with my new and old friends on this trip and the people we've met than I've had all year and I'm grateful I've had the chance to have the level of conversations we've had about a topic and a history we all care about. I thought I knew a lot about Irish history and the Northern Irish conflict before I came on this trip, but we've all agreed we now know more than we ever thought we could or would. As Dr. John Spencer said last night at our farewell dinner, if you leave a trip like this feeling more confused and more challenged than before than it has been a successful experience. It has been tremendously successful. By the end of the trip we felt a little like we would only be able to talk about everything we've learned and experienced with each other because any one else would look at us like we were speaking a different language. Those boys (and one girl) who signed up for my Irish Lit class in the Fall have no idea what's about to hit them.
This trip has been challenging, enlightening, rewarding, and so much more than I expected, and I am very, very thankful for the many people who made this experience possible and made it possible for me to be a part of it. It was one of the best and most intense things I've ever done, and I know I am better for it. I am also convinced more than ever that travel is the deepest education one can get.
And with that, I better start packing for the Republic.
Thanks so much for reading!
Slainte,
Jeannie
Saturday, June 25, 2011
Sound files
Here are the sound files for May Blood, Joe Doherty and Seanna Walsh, and Sam White:
May Blood:
http://www.mediafire.com/?0pmwgaul7lp7re1
Joe Doherty and Seanna Walsh:
http://www.mediafire.com/?dbh8bbbfb7hbrhl
Sam White:
http://www.mediafire.com/?66uoubqb4dg76mm
May Blood:
http://www.mediafire.com/?0pmwgaul7lp7re1
Joe Doherty and Seanna Walsh:
http://www.mediafire.com/?dbh8bbbfb7hbrhl
Sam White:
http://www.mediafire.com/?66uoubqb4dg76mm
Friday, June 24, 2011
Thought you might like to check out some of someone else's thoughts, so here's a link to Phil Metres' blog:
http://networkedblogs.com/jC8ek
http://networkedblogs.com/jC8ek
Thursday, June 23, 2011
Reaching the end of this portion of my trip
I realize I have been slacking a bit as I also realize I can't keep up with my earlier blog lengths. I will try to do some mini-summaries of what we've been doing the last few days here and will likely post once more before heading to Dublin on Sunday.
On Monday:
We started the morning by meeting with US Consul General, Kamala Lakhdir, who made many very insightful things particularly about the education system here in Northern Ireland and the need for more integrated schools. I completely agree! One of the main realizations I've come to here is that one huge step towards solving the problems here is getting Catholic and Protestant kids to interact positively and regularly with one another as early as possible.
In the afternoon we met with Mark Thompson, the Director of Relatives for Justice -- a Republican victims' rights group. My sense was that the organization was largely interested in (as the name says) helping relatives of victims obtain justice for the people they've lost through digging for answers and/or even seeking some sort of legal justice. We've talked often here about the many different faces and forms of "justice."
On Tuesday:
We spent the morning and afternoon at the Institute of Irish Studies at Queen's University, Belfast with the Director, Dominic Bryan -- a very lively and entertaining man. In the morning, he delivered a lecture titled "Northern Ireland: Peace & Prosperity or More Divided Than Ever," and in the afternoon he delivered a lecture titled "Parade Disputes in Northern Ireland" -- very timely as there has been various degrees of rioting in East Belfast over the past several nights, including a journalist being shot and a UVF raid of a Catholic neighborhood. Last night things seemed to settle down as an envoy of sorts from Stormont apparently met up with leaders of different neighborhoods and made some sort of agreement/arrangement.
On Wednesday:
We spent the entire day with the Police Services of Northern Ireland, including a driving tour inside the armored vehicles. It was a very heated day in some senses as our very friendly and cheerful police guide actually walked out of one of the lectures about the history of the RUC/the history of policing in Northern Ireland we were hearing from the Police Museum curator (a lecture given to all new officers actually since the move from the RUC to the PSNI), saying he could no longer participate and later saying that "that wasn't the police I joined." We also went on a tour of the RUC Memorial Garden. The tension around policing in Northern Ireland is huge -- though much better now that they've moved to and are making efforts to develop a reputation as a neutral force. There are many, many "truths" in this place and it's very clear that on ALL sides there are victims and perpetrators. No one here is without blame in some way at some time... First we must admit that , and then we need to focus on all the people who've come a long way and are now doing good and trying to minimize conflict, again, on ALL sides. It was a rough day and everyone on the trip is feeling emotionally exhausted.
Which is why it was so refreshing to end our night with a visit from Baroness May Blood (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/May_Blood,_Baroness_Blood), a founding member of the Northern Ireland Women's Coalition, who is doing great things to advocate for integrated schools (she's raised over 10 million pounds for them). She is hands down my favorite person we've met here, and I believe if everyone in the country just took her advice progress would be instant. She was brilliant! As Western Reserve Academy looks forward to a year with the theme of Justice, I'd love to find a way to incorporate some fundraising efforts or community service linked to her efforts to end the conflict and its effects through integrated education. Here is the link to her book on amazon: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Watch-My-Lips-Im-Speaking/dp/0717142523 and the blurb: The advent of the Troubles was a deeply traumatic experience for her. Brought up in a 'mixed' community she watched in disbelief and horror as that community disintegrated under the impact of inter-communal violence. She became increasingly involved in grassroots community work and an active participant in the developing 'peace process'.In 1999, in recognition of her years of trade union and community endeavours, May Blood was offered a life peerage and a seat in the House of Lords, the first working-class person from Northern Ireland to be so honoured. Her initial response was to decline the offer, for to her the House of Lords was a place where rich old men sat around and slept all day, a place far removed from the everyday realities of working-class Belfast. Nevertheless, she took her seat, hoping that, as 'Baroness May Blood', she could advance the causes she holds so dear. She has lived to see the end of the Troubles, but a society still deeply divided and one still needing people with her undiminished energy and commitment. "Watch My Lips, I'm Speaking" is not only May's own story, but a unique insight into how ordinary people strove to rise above the appalling experience which had engulfed them.
Today:
We spent the morning helping out Rory and Peace Players International at one of their events, and I have to say that watching a bunch of kids from both communities running around the basketball courts was absolutely refreshing and something I needed at this point in the trip. If you haven't already checked out this organization, please do!
We spent the afternoon meeting with Joe Doherty (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joe_Doherty read his whole bio -- it's wild! And make sure to get all the way to the last two sentences) and Seanna Walsh (http://saoirse32.blogsome.com/2005/05/05/seanna-walshs-tribute-to-bobby-sands/), big time former IRA prisoners at Sinn Fein's headquarters. Joe Doherty managed to escape from jail and was later captured in NYC by the FBI and is now a youth worker and Seanna Walsh was one of Bobby Sand's best friends and was one of the first men involved in the blanket protests. It continues to be unreal meeting these and listening to them present their side of things and to then look up their full biographies and get more specifics -- seriously read Joe Doherty's bio on wikipedia. It's just unreal. I have found the former prisoners absolutely fascinating. I started typing more but find I have way too much to say about this, so instead I'll say if you want to hear more about them, their ideology, their lives after release/after the Good Friday Agreement, ask me when I get back if you've got an hour to spare.
Tonight we are meeting with a former Loyalist prisoner named Sam White.
I've fully recorded our meetings with Dominic Bryan, Relatives for Justice, May Blood, and Joe Doherty and Seanna Walsh, and once I figure out how to upload them to blogger I will...if you know how to do this, please let me know! I'm especially keen for people to hear May Blood.
Tomorrow, our official last day, we head to Derry/Londonderry for the Bloody Sunday Museum and the Bogside Artists.
PS - We also visited Milltown Cemetery this week.
Jeannie
On Monday:
We started the morning by meeting with US Consul General, Kamala Lakhdir, who made many very insightful things particularly about the education system here in Northern Ireland and the need for more integrated schools. I completely agree! One of the main realizations I've come to here is that one huge step towards solving the problems here is getting Catholic and Protestant kids to interact positively and regularly with one another as early as possible.
In the afternoon we met with Mark Thompson, the Director of Relatives for Justice -- a Republican victims' rights group. My sense was that the organization was largely interested in (as the name says) helping relatives of victims obtain justice for the people they've lost through digging for answers and/or even seeking some sort of legal justice. We've talked often here about the many different faces and forms of "justice."
On Tuesday:
We spent the morning and afternoon at the Institute of Irish Studies at Queen's University, Belfast with the Director, Dominic Bryan -- a very lively and entertaining man. In the morning, he delivered a lecture titled "Northern Ireland: Peace & Prosperity or More Divided Than Ever," and in the afternoon he delivered a lecture titled "Parade Disputes in Northern Ireland" -- very timely as there has been various degrees of rioting in East Belfast over the past several nights, including a journalist being shot and a UVF raid of a Catholic neighborhood. Last night things seemed to settle down as an envoy of sorts from Stormont apparently met up with leaders of different neighborhoods and made some sort of agreement/arrangement.
On Wednesday:
We spent the entire day with the Police Services of Northern Ireland, including a driving tour inside the armored vehicles. It was a very heated day in some senses as our very friendly and cheerful police guide actually walked out of one of the lectures about the history of the RUC/the history of policing in Northern Ireland we were hearing from the Police Museum curator (a lecture given to all new officers actually since the move from the RUC to the PSNI), saying he could no longer participate and later saying that "that wasn't the police I joined." We also went on a tour of the RUC Memorial Garden. The tension around policing in Northern Ireland is huge -- though much better now that they've moved to and are making efforts to develop a reputation as a neutral force. There are many, many "truths" in this place and it's very clear that on ALL sides there are victims and perpetrators. No one here is without blame in some way at some time... First we must admit that , and then we need to focus on all the people who've come a long way and are now doing good and trying to minimize conflict, again, on ALL sides. It was a rough day and everyone on the trip is feeling emotionally exhausted.
Which is why it was so refreshing to end our night with a visit from Baroness May Blood (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/May_Blood,_Baroness_Blood), a founding member of the Northern Ireland Women's Coalition, who is doing great things to advocate for integrated schools (she's raised over 10 million pounds for them). She is hands down my favorite person we've met here, and I believe if everyone in the country just took her advice progress would be instant. She was brilliant! As Western Reserve Academy looks forward to a year with the theme of Justice, I'd love to find a way to incorporate some fundraising efforts or community service linked to her efforts to end the conflict and its effects through integrated education. Here is the link to her book on amazon: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Watch-My-Lips-Im-Speaking/dp/0717142523 and the blurb: The advent of the Troubles was a deeply traumatic experience for her. Brought up in a 'mixed' community she watched in disbelief and horror as that community disintegrated under the impact of inter-communal violence. She became increasingly involved in grassroots community work and an active participant in the developing 'peace process'.In 1999, in recognition of her years of trade union and community endeavours, May Blood was offered a life peerage and a seat in the House of Lords, the first working-class person from Northern Ireland to be so honoured. Her initial response was to decline the offer, for to her the House of Lords was a place where rich old men sat around and slept all day, a place far removed from the everyday realities of working-class Belfast. Nevertheless, she took her seat, hoping that, as 'Baroness May Blood', she could advance the causes she holds so dear. She has lived to see the end of the Troubles, but a society still deeply divided and one still needing people with her undiminished energy and commitment. "Watch My Lips, I'm Speaking" is not only May's own story, but a unique insight into how ordinary people strove to rise above the appalling experience which had engulfed them.
Today:
We spent the morning helping out Rory and Peace Players International at one of their events, and I have to say that watching a bunch of kids from both communities running around the basketball courts was absolutely refreshing and something I needed at this point in the trip. If you haven't already checked out this organization, please do!
We spent the afternoon meeting with Joe Doherty (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joe_Doherty read his whole bio -- it's wild! And make sure to get all the way to the last two sentences) and Seanna Walsh (http://saoirse32.blogsome.com/2005/05/05/seanna-walshs-tribute-to-bobby-sands/), big time former IRA prisoners at Sinn Fein's headquarters. Joe Doherty managed to escape from jail and was later captured in NYC by the FBI and is now a youth worker and Seanna Walsh was one of Bobby Sand's best friends and was one of the first men involved in the blanket protests. It continues to be unreal meeting these and listening to them present their side of things and to then look up their full biographies and get more specifics -- seriously read Joe Doherty's bio on wikipedia. It's just unreal. I have found the former prisoners absolutely fascinating. I started typing more but find I have way too much to say about this, so instead I'll say if you want to hear more about them, their ideology, their lives after release/after the Good Friday Agreement, ask me when I get back if you've got an hour to spare.
Tonight we are meeting with a former Loyalist prisoner named Sam White.
I've fully recorded our meetings with Dominic Bryan, Relatives for Justice, May Blood, and Joe Doherty and Seanna Walsh, and once I figure out how to upload them to blogger I will...if you know how to do this, please let me know! I'm especially keen for people to hear May Blood.
Tomorrow, our official last day, we head to Derry/Londonderry for the Bloody Sunday Museum and the Bogside Artists.
PS - We also visited Milltown Cemetery this week.
Jeannie
 |
| The US Consul General is to the left of me. |
 |
| The Gates of Milltown Cemetery |
 |
| May Blood is sitting in front of me. |
Tuesday, June 21, 2011
Bitten
Had two great lectures by Dominic Bryan, Director of the Irish Studies Program/Department at Queen's university today. I recorded all 3 hours of it and will try to upload it later this week. Also met with poet Sinead Morrissey -- will post some of her poems as well. I know I still need to write about yesterday, and there will certainly be lots to write about tomorrow (we are spending the entire day riding along with the PSNI -- the Police Service of Northern Ireland -- and I'm sure with the rioting that happened last night, they will have plenty to say!). Right now, however, I'm recovering from a bedbug infestation... have switched buildings, had clothes sent out to be boiled (essentially), and had luggage fumigated, but I'm still itchy and constantly feel like things are crawling on me! I'm sure all will be well if (when?) I wake up tomorrow with no new bites! Stay tuned!
Riots
Yesterday we spent the morning with the US Consul General and the afternoon with a man from Relatives for Justice. I'll write more on both of those later. And then this happened in East Belfast last night: http://www.u.tv/News/Sectarian-gangs-riot-in-east-Belfast/93477fab-1c46-4f3b-81b8-085d7180ca28
Sunday, June 19, 2011
Marching Season
Last night as Phil and I were walking to meet Rory at a pub in town, we heard some serious drumming and followed our ears. We'd stumbled upon one of the many Orange Parades (Protestant/Unionist parades) and looked up and realized we were, in fact, on Sandy Row. I have to admit that for the first time, I was a little bit nervous. I realized I was wearing my claddagh ring (really common in the Republic of Ireland and in the US amongst people of Irish heritage), and the only people I've seen wearing claddagh rings in Belfast have been the ex-IRA men. I didn't take my hand out of my pocket once during the 15-20 minutes we stood on the sideline watching the parade -- silly as that may seem. I'm pretty sure I'd just have to say "I'm American" and I'd be left alone but there was a part of me that was a little scared that if someone saw it, it might start something. There was A LOT of drinking going on amongst the crowd, which was clearly excited, and in front of us two little boys about 5-7 years of age were running around with fake machine guns, play-shooting each other. It was very easy to see how having these parades march through your neighborhood (if you are Catholic) could be seen as threatening. They clearly have militant pasts as each marching band came through with a different military-style uniform, and man oh man did those drummers beat their huge barrel drums with intensity -- one drum had written on its side "Hit with passion, beat with pride" or vice versa. You could feel it in your chest. As Phil said, you could see how much these parades could feed into identity; if you were a little boy, this would seem really cool to you and definitely be something you'd aspire to be a part of someday. And there are hundreds of these parades. When we abandoned the spectacle and finally met up with Rory, he told us that there had been some trouble on Friday night at one of the parades. I'll post a video and some videos of other Orange parades below. It was absolutely an intriguing (if not slightly frightening) experience, and I'm glad we got to see it. I've asked and it seems there really aren't equivalent Catholic parades. Things were peaceful while we were there last night but it wasn't hard to imagine how things could quickly spiral out of control.
Below is a new report about Friday's march:
http://www.u.tv/News/Contentious-parade-in-North-Belfast/a6842af8-399a-4879-aff8-5bd5d264947c
Below is a video of a riot at a parade on the 12th of July last year (the biggest marching day that celebrates the Battle of the Boyne):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lbnQdK8IskE&feature=related
Here is a video of marchers from July 13, 2009:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0dJHVPZzz8
Jeannie
Below is a new report about Friday's march:
http://www.u.tv/News/Contentious-parade-in-North-Belfast/a6842af8-399a-4879-aff8-5bd5d264947c
Below is a video of a riot at a parade on the 12th of July last year (the biggest marching day that celebrates the Battle of the Boyne):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lbnQdK8IskE&feature=related
Here is a video of marchers from July 13, 2009:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0dJHVPZzz8
Jeannie
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